Unified depth-limited wave breaking detection and dissipation in fully nonlinear potential flow models

A new method is proposed for simulating the energy dissipation resulting from depth-limited wave breaking, in combination with a universal breaking onset criterion, two-dimensional (2D) fully nonlinear potential flow (FNPF) models, based on non-dimensional strength parameter. Two different 2D-FNPF models are used, which solve Laplace equation Chebyshev polynomial expansions or boundary element method. In these impending waves detected real time using criterion earlier work, ratio of horizontal particle velocity at crest u, relative to c, B=u/c>0.85. For waves, dissipated locally an absorbing surface pressure that calibrated inverted hydraulic jump analogy. This approach first validated periodic spilling breakers over plane beaches and bars, results shown be good agreement experimental data. Recasting this model terms strength, analog provide similar those constant model, yield plunging as well. The same then applied irregular shoaling submerged bar, agree well data height, asymmetry, skewness, kurtosis. Future work will extend 2D breaker cases three-dimensional (3D) simulated existing 3D-FNPF shallow deep water conditions.